Summary

The omakase trend in NYC is significant, transforming what was once a strictly traditional Japanese culinary art form into a common feature of the city’s dining landscape. And as with anything held sacred and dear, controversy arises when a modern interpretation is applied. This modernization isn’t a novel idea, nor is Shuko, an establishment that’s been operating since 2014. Despite its long-standing presence, my first visit wasn’t until the summer of 2023.

My introduction to omakase had been rooted in tradition, visiting places like Sushi Ginza Onodera (now unfortunately closed) and Sushi Noz. Thus, my initial experience at Shuko, offering a more relaxed and contemporary take on omakase, was a new venture for me. My first visit was very pleasing, prompting me to return.

Since then, my visits to Shuko have consistently been enjoyable. Shuko is fun, funky, and a breath of fresh air within a very intense domain of Japanese culture. While my affinity for traditional omakase runs deep, sometimes it’s nice to enjoy a high-quality meal in a more relaxed setting that doesn’t entirely break the bank (though it might leave it slightly cracked).

Food & Beverage

Shuko follows the typical omakase format: a series of appetizers, a whole lot of nigiri, possibly a roll or two, and dessert. The restaurant particularly shines in its appetizer preparation and flavor selection. At more traditional sushi establishments, a casual enthusiast might encounter unfamiliar ingredients and tastes. Such distinct flavors might not be common to the average New York foodie. While it is certainly worth acquiring such tastes, it’s nice to know that you don’t really have to exit your comfort zone at any point during the meal. Each piece of fish is fresh, clean, with good texture, and the right balance of flavors. Favorites to anticipate include the toro tartare and caviar appetizer, along with pieces of amberjack, sweet shrimp, seabass, and otoro.

Regarding beverages, Shuko offers a wide array. Their signature cocktail menu stands out, a rare find at omakase venues. Additionally, they boast an extensive selection of Japanese whisky, along with sake, wine, and beer. Guests also have the option of selecting a sake pairing with their meal.

Service

At a less traditional establishment, you would expect to have less traditional service. This holds true at Shuko, yet the service remains wonderful. From the chefs to the waitstaff, and the sommeliers, Shuko’s team is welcoming, friendly, attentive, and helpful. They readily accommodate requests, striving to make the experience as enjoyable as possible for each guest.

Atmosphere

Shuko presents a sleek, modern twist on the typical omakase design. Its light counter is complemented by dark wood, brick, and black accents. Initially quiet during early sittings, Shuko undoubtedly becomes more vibrant as the night unfolds. This dynamism isn’t always found in similar establishments.

Shuko often attempts to fill every seat, contrasting with the more spaced-out seating typical in such venues. Although the atmosphere picks up later in the evening, there’s a noticeable lag between Shuko’s early hours and when the energy rises, creating a slightly strange ambiance. This is mainly because Shuko plays an assortment of loud, but enjoyable music, specifically focused towards hip-hop and R&B. Listening to 50 Cent blaring on the speakers while seated next to an elderly couple meticulously noting piece of sushi they consume can be a little confusing. Therefore, I recommend visiting Shuko from 7:00pm onwards, aligning better with the atmosphere they aim to create.

Vibe

Building on the point about early seating, the overall vibe at Shuko can vary significantly depending on the dining time. This phenomenon is common in many restaurants, but it seems particularly pronounced at Shuko. Despite this, Shuko consistently offers an extremely enjoyable experience and has always provided me and others with wonderful meals. I’m not sure there is another high-end omakase tasting in NYC that is as fun and approachable as Shuko.