Photo courtesy of Major Food Group

- Inventive Italian -

- CHIC & clean -

275 Mulberry St.

NoLita, Manhattan.

As of March, 2024

Summary

Major Food Group is often very reliable. But, with so many locations, diverse concepts, and food choices, you can expect some hits and misses. I’ve found the majority to follow the latter, especially in terms of the overall experience, and Torrisi falls into this category. It’s a beautiful, vibrant space where every detail is meticulously attended to. The service is eccentric and engaging, encouraging the crowd to truly enjoy their experience. The food is excellent, offering a unique spin on the immensely saturated Italian cuisine scene in NYC—a facet I will never complain about. I'm a big fan. Now, does it live up to all its hype? Well, I'll leave that for the Instagram food influencers, who shine their flashlights on every dish that graces their table, to decide. You’ll probably see a few of those if you visit (no judgments here).

Food & Beverage

Richie Torrisi and his team take a unique approach to Italian cuisine. Many of the dishes have the backbone of classic Italian fare—hams with zeppole, amatriciana, tortellini pomodoro—but they often feature a fusion twist: cavatelli with Jamaican beef ragu, angel hair with wok lobster and jalapeño, and raviolini with prawns and saffron. Some work, some not so much. I’ll admit, when it comes to pasta dishes, I believe there’s a certain level of experimentation that begins to detract from the core purpose of the dish. That’s not to say some aren't excellent and delicious; I just don’t find myself reminiscing about these pastas.

The stars at Torrisi are the daily specials, specialties, and antipasti. If they have mackerel, bonito, or any crudo dishes available, order every single one. They are all incredible. I was also fortunate enough to try their duck bao bun specials, but they were no longer on the menu during my second visit. You really can’t go wrong with any of their specialties, but be sure to order some bread to accompany whatever else you get. I would particularly like to highlight their dressed endive salad; it is light, crisp, and very flavorful, epitomizing how Torrisi approaches their cuisine. When it comes to mains, the chicken alla griglia is non-negotiable. It is, without a doubt, the best chicken dish I have had in Manhattan. If you’re a coffee lover, their inventive take on the affogato is certainly worth trying, as is their almond cheesecake. I am also fond of their frozen yogurt, which is bright, citrusy, and slightly bitter.

The cocktail menu aptly focuses on Italian-style cocktails, which are well-balanced, flavorful, and nicely presented. The wine list is solid, with some very premium options, but the overall menu is very well-suited to an Italian white, so I would recommend leaning in that direction.

Service

The service aspect of Torrisi begins at the front door, where you are greeted by a doorman, followed by a host or hostess, and then escorted to your table. This process has always been smooth, organized, and efficient, but the real fun doesn't start until you reach your table. That's when you meet your main server. In my visits to Torrisi, I’ve encountered two different servers waiting on my table, both bringing the same flair and energy. Having a server who is so dynamic, energetic, and joyful is immediately infectious. It feels as if you are at a Broadway show, and you’re in the center stage. In terms of pure personality, the staff at Torrisi are the most entertaining I’ve ever encountered. There's nothing I love more than seeing someone brimming with passion and love for what they do, and there is no shortage of that at Torrisi.

Atmosphere

As I mentioned in the summary, every detail of Torrisi feels purposeful and meticulously planned, a quality that is extremely evident in the atmosphere. The space showcases some of my favorite color and design combinations: brown and green, exposed brick and tall ceilings, a bar room separate from the dining room, and an open kitchen concept viewable from every angle of the restaurant. The space is beyond stunning and beautiful. There is also a certain flow and Feng Shui that really allows the restaurant to operate harmoniously. My only criticism, which is common in NYC, is that the booth section for two in the dining space feels a bit cramped.

Vibe

Torrisi is a vibe. It truly is a special space and experience that provides you with an immersive escape for a few hours. While I will tip my hat to the quality of the food, Torrisi is far more about the collective experience. Come early, come late—it doesn't matter. If you have a chance to finesse your way into Torrisi for dinner service, it will be very much worth your time and money. I’m already looking forward to my next visit.

Photo courtesy of The Infatuation

Photo courtesy of Michelin Guide

Photo courtesy of New York Times